Thursday, October 31, 2013

Introducing Mauro Grifoni: The Italian J Crew

Italian label Mauro Grifoni - one of Italy's best known and most profitable brands - may not be well known in Britain but, with the opening of its new Harrods shop in shop, it soon will be. With the colourful preppy luxe of J Crew and the easy-to-wear coolness of Isabel Marant, the brand is equal measures sporty, rock and classic - a mix that is perfectly personified by the label's favourite stylish women.

"I love the style of Alexa Chung, Lou Doillon, Jane Birkin," Mauro Grifoni's creative director and co-owner, Ilaria Sesso, told us. "I like things that are simple to wear, whether casual or smart, and a little boy-girl. Dresses with masculine jackets, simple trousers with softer blouses - that's the style I love."

In the same way that Isabel Marant or J Crew's Jenna Lyons embody their respective brands, Sesso is Grifoni incarnate. Petite and pretty with pared-back style and minimal make-up, the designer has been at the helm of Grifoni's womenswear collection since its launch in 1997 - growing it from a men's shirting brand to a label that also boasts a more casual womenswear offering, M Grifoni.

"I created it to have something to wear," Sesso laughed. "I want to get dressed, too! The men's shirts were a great start because we came from a place of quality and fit. It was about the fabrics then and that still is the starting point for me, so whether I'm designing for the mainline or for M Grifoni we might find a fun print or some cool motifs, but the fabric and shape has to be perfect first."

Sesso's sister is the London-based actress Claire Forlani - famous for her role as Brad Pitt's love interest in Meet Joe Black in 1998, but also for parts in cult television shows CSI: NY and NCIS - and it seems that normal sister behaviour applies even when you live in different countries.

"She just takes it!" Sesso said. "She helps herself, as sisters do. She loves the collection; it's very her actually. She's worn it to events and her husband [Scottish actor Dougray Scott] wears the men's collection. I love that it appeals to women across the board and - because the brand has spread organically, through word of mouth - people feel excited when they discover it."

And discover it they will. From a base of standalone stores across Italy, Mauro Grifoni has added a store in Amsterdam and will open in Moscow, Dubai and Berlin over the coming months, following the launch of its Harrods shop in early November.

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